Installing a Fixed Windshield in 1932 Chevy Passenger Cars
By Stephen Kassis
Photos & Installation Tips by Bill Turner
The original windshield in 1932 Chevrolet passenger cars (except convertibles) were Fisher “V V” (Vision & Ventilation) crank-up type windshield. When building a street rod, it is often desirable to make the windshield fixed. This is especially true when air conditioning is planned as part of the vehicle build.
One of our customers, Bill Turner, did this installation on his 1932 Hot Rod Coupe with rubber seals provided by The Filling Station. This project requires an above average skill level as metal fabrication is required. However, the results are a very clean and functional look. This installation was done on a body with the wood superstructure replaced with a tube steel framework to support the body shell. The procedure may be slightly different if the wood in the body will be retained.
Once the decision is made to eliminate the crank up windshield mechanism in your 1932 car, it will be necessary to remove the windshield lifting regulator & regulator board, original windshield wiper motor & linkage, windshield glass and stainless trim around the exterior of the windshield. These items will not be reinstalled but are good trading materials. Also remove the original rubber seals around the windshield and discard. Be sure to keep the tall vertical inner metal trim pieces on either side of the windshield as these may be desired for the new installation.
Inspect and repair any rust damage around the windshield, especially at the bottom of the windshield opening. The channel at the base of the windshield is a common rust area as it can hold water. It is important that this area is repaired, treated with a rust inhibitor, primed and painted. Use caution if the lower channel requires metal repair. Too much heat applied to sheet metal can cause warping. This section can make the glass installation difficult if it is not repaired properly.
1) Begin by removing the doors and seat assembly for easy access. Rubber seals required for this project are: 4 ft. 70-1195 (for the bottom piece across the cowl) and 6 ft. 70-1191 (for the sides and top). The bottom piece – 70-1195 – will fit the bottom without any modification. It fits tight in the original grooved opening on the cowl. For extra insurance, you can use 3M 08693 urethane windshield sealer on final assembly to prevent leaks. Note: Dry fit all parts to be sure they go together nicely before using any sealer. Urethane is difficult to remove after it is cured.
2) Bend a piece of 1/2″ square tube and a piece of 1-1/4″ x 1/8″ flat stock in an arch to match the curve of the upper windshield opening. Drill holes in both pieces to match, then tap the square tube holes to 10-32 machine thread. Weld the tube above the windshield opening to hold the upper rubber seal. The flat stock will fit against the rubber to hold it in place.
3) For the sides he used 1″ square tube and 1-1/4″ x 1/8″ flat stock to hold the side rubber seals in place. Again, drill holes in both pieces to match and tap 10-32 holes in the 1″ tube. Cut a short piece of 1/2″ square tube for the top. Bend the side pieces slightly to follow the contour of the windshield posts.
4) Grind down the original side rails to 1/2″ to accommodate the rubber seal. Weld in the vertical side pieces. Use the flat bar to hold the rubber seal in place on the sides with 10-32 screws. Again, you can use 3M 08693 urethane sealer after fitting, to help prevent leaks.
5) Make a glass pattern out of 1/4″ Masonite or acrylic, using the original windshield as a pattern. The upper corners will have to be curved to allow the rubber seal to smoothly bend. Create the largest radius possible to prevent puckering of the rubber seal. Use this pattern to make adjustments as necessary for a good fit. A little extra time on this step will save a lot of hassle later on.
6) With the bottom seal in place, push the upper seal onto the top and sides of the pattern. Slide the bottom of the pattern into the rubber and start pushing the upper part into place. Work it in a little at a time, using a soapy water solution to help it to slide better. Work it from the bottom up, a little at a time.
7) To finish off the installation, an electric wiper motor can be installed through the 1/2″ square tube above the driver. Run the wires for the wiper motor down the left side of the windshield and hide them behind the metal retainer plate.
This project is for the advanced car builder, but with a little care, even a novice could attempt it. This project would be similar on 1925-1931 Chevrolet and other GM makes with crank-up windshields.
